You Always Remember Your First Chanel

Photo: Janine Falcon

This ancient, scratched-up Chanel No 5 spray wasn’t always mine. It belonged to a girl I never met, who roomed with my best friend at college in New England in a typical, off-campus student house with mismatched furniture and an emptyish fridge. The house was owned by Kevin, a towering, affable guy who managed the town’s coat hanger factory, which is psychically as far away as you can get from the most expensive college in the US.

One time I was visiting and nosing around in the bathroom for toothpaste, I saw something that seemed completely out of place. Trying to sound casual, I said to Kevin “there’s Chanel No 5 in the medicine cabinet.”

“Oh. That must have been Charlotte’s,” he said. “She moved out. You can have it.”

Who leaves Chanel behind? My best guess is someone who already has a lot of Chanel or unfettered access to more Chanel. This was unfathomable to 20-year-old, poor student me. This abandoned bottle was almost half full and I wouldn’t have been any more surprised to find a Fabergé egg or a diamond bracelet.

I shouldn’t have been. The girls who attended this college were very fancy, but hid it under baggy sweaters and thrifted jeans. My friend explained that back home they had “long driveways” which was her oblique way of saying that their (rich) families lived in enormous houses, set so far back from the road that they weren’t visible to passersby.

I took the bottle, obviously. It was impossible to pretend I didn’t want it. Thirty-five years later I have a lot of perfume (none of it nicked from other people’s bathrooms, by the way.) And even though it’s always been rather banged up, I continued to buy refills for Charlotte’s bottle. The fact that this style and size is still available speaks volumes about the endurance of Chanel.

It now lives on my dresser, beside an even older No 5 bottle that belonged to my mother. It’s not called hoarding when it’s Chanel, right?

Eau de Givenchy #perfumeeverydamnday

Eau de Givenchy

There’s a breeze blowing through Eau de Givenchy, a 2018 reimagining of the 1980s classic. This new version gets you with its fizzy bergamot, lemon, orange and grapefruit opening, before veering into a greenish bitter almond and then resting on a featherbed of pillowy floral hedione, the synthetic jasmine note created in 1958 and reputed to drive women wild with desire (Steve McQueen allegedly wore it.)

Before you leave your house and head out into the world, spray Eau de Givenchy into the air in front of you and walk through it, so your clothes are imbued with the scent. You will feel like you hung your laundry to dry in the garden of Hubert de Givenchy’s Saint Jean de Cap Ferrat mansion, le Clos Fiorentina.

I know it’s highly unlikely that a mansion would have laundry lines near its gardens, and the staff probably wouldn’t even let us anywhere near them. But such details interfere with my fantasy, so I ignore them. And if now is not the time to construct elaborate parallel universe fantasy lives, then I don’t know when is.

Clos Fiorentina, Saint Jean Cap Ferrat

Kérastase Fresh Affair Dry Shampoo Smells Like You Moved Into a Higher Tax Bracket

Inside this can lies your better self

On the days that you are hanging by a thread and dry shampoo is your lifeline, you do not need to be reminded that everything has gone pear-shaped. And the last thing you want is some boring, mass-market-smelling, ‘good enough’ dry shampoo. What you need is someone kind who says “hey, it happens to the best of us,” and maybe also a dry shampoo that smells as if (for the brief moment that you are spraying) your life is actually perfect, not just merely ok.

Kérastase Fresh Affair Refreshing Dry Shampoo is scented with neroli, the blossom from the bitter orange tree, so it smells like the very best, most expensive eau de cologne. And it contains rice starch to efficiently absorb the (sorry to use this ugly word) ‘grease’ that has flattened your hair. But it also has vitamin E, so that same hair won’t becomes dried out and brittle. And the neroli scent gently lingers, giving you blissful little whiffs of your expensive-smelling self for hours after you spray.

There’s even a small travel size available, so when we return to the gym (I really miss the gym) you will be the fanciest lady at the communal mirror, hands down.

Neutrogena Sunscreen Mist Makes It Easy To Stay Protected

Keep this by your side for the remainder of the summer

Of course you’re diligent with sunscreen in the morning, after you shower. That’s the easy part. It’s when the sun is at its highest and it’s time for your lunchtime sunscreen re-up when it all falls apart. Who wants to get their hands all sticky adding a layer of goo to an already heat-dampened face?

Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Face Sunscreen is a fine mist, so it’s easy to apply as your critical midday top-up, no face-touching required. Reapplying sunscreen throughout the day will protect you from dark spots and expensive IPL (intense pulsed laser) spot-removing treatments down the road, so why wouldn’t you?

At 100 mls, it can go in your carry-on (I’m not, but some of us are flying) and it’s small enough to slide into your straw summer tote. And arguably not that important, but very important to me, the delicate fragrance is nicely ‘chi-chi beach club with white chaise longues’, so you get an olfactory reward for using your sunscreen.

Clarins Eau Dynamisante #perfumeeverydamnday

I swear I’m not making this up. Years ago, in February, I saw a staffer at Toronto’s Clarins spa mopping the floor with the contents of a giant bottle of Eau Dynamisante, so even in the dead of winter the whole place smelled of citrus and summer. 

An extravagant hand with an energizing scent is the approach we need in the midst of swampy July. At $60CAN for the 100 ml spray, Eau Dynamisante encourages liberal spritzing. 

Its mix of petitgrain (bitter orange oil) and Amalfi lemon with rosemary, thyme and cardamom is eau de cologne with herbal energy for a lift when the hot weather has laid you flat. 

Or if you’re feeling extra louche, use it as fancy room spray, when the thought of lighting a scented candle in July seems wrong.

Feed Your Face: Borage Oil for Glowing Skin

Take four capsules of borage oil a day for glowing skin.

In the ‘what is happening to my aging body now?’ saga, dry skin is not nearly the worst thing. But my skin always feels desiccated and tight now, as if I accidently shrank it in the wash. 

So I eat more salmon, snack on walnuts instead of Doritos and take fish oil capsules daily – all to get those precious omega 3 fatty acids. And not just for their ability to reduce inflammation and inhibit the formation of clots in the bloodstream. Omega 3s even help strengthen our skin’s barrier function and improve its texture. 

But apparently we need to be thinking about omega 6 fatty acids as well. The less popular sibling to omega 3s, omega 6 fatty acids play a significant role in brain function, they stimulate hair growth and maintain bone health and one omega 6 fatty acid in particular, gamma linoleic acid (GLA), is really, really good for your skin. 

It all began when I met Lorna Vanderhaeghe. It was a bleak and cold winter’s day and I stared (rather rudely, I fear) at her skin, which was glowing in a way that one does not see in Toronto in February. She may be 60, but her skin is barely into its 40s.

Vanderhaeghe, a formulator with a background in nutrition and biochemistry, is the founder of Smart Solutions supplements. She takes borage oil, which is rich in gamma linoleic acid, also known as GLA (an omega 6 fatty acid) every single day and has for years.

GLA is essential for skin. it’s used topically on infants suffering from sebbhoreic dermatitis, and can help combat eczema. “Deficencies in fatty acids can spur on wrinkles and rosacea,” says Vanderhaege. “Literally all of the high end cosmetics have GLA in them.”

There are trace amounts of GLA in leafy greens and nuts, but, unlike omega 3 fatty acids, you can’t source it from fish and flax. We get GLA from breast milk, but we know that’s a short ride. Evening primrose is 8% GLA, but has a hard shell which inhibits extraction whereas borage (which is 24% GLA) has a soft shelled seed, so the oil can be cold pressed. Unlike the omega 6s found in vegetable oils, which can be unhealthy if consumed in excess, GLA is a powerful anti inflammatory. (And these are only two of many studies.)

If your skin is really tight and mad at you for whatever reason, you can even use GLA topically, like a souped up face oil. Just pop a capsule and apply the contents directly your face at bedtime and wake up feeling much happier when you face the mirror.

Mineral Sunscreens That Won’t Leave You Ghostly White

Did you correctly identify the vintage sunlamp tanning goggles?

I’ve always felt faintly uneasy advocating for expensive sun care, because for sunscreen to work you need to apply it liberally and often. But we tend to be somewhat miserly with expensive creams unless we are JLo, who made her rep as a beauty product libertine who coats herself head-to-toe in Crème de La Mer.

Nowadays, mineral sunscreens are increasingly the first choice of people who don’t want, or react poorly to chemical screens (they can sting sensitive faces) or prefer a cream that does its work at the skin’s surface, bouncing the UV rays off like a disco ball (chemical sunscreens absorb the harmful rays and convert them to harmless heat.) But some mineral screens come loaded with good intentions, but not necessarily the nicest formulas, so they sit thickly on skin, all whitish and heavy.

If you want a highly effective, broad spectrum mineral sunscreen that disappears into skin with no white cast, after only the most cursory rubbing, Alumier MD Clear Shield Broad Spectrum SPF 42 ($48), Dermalogica Invisible Physical Defense SPF 30 ($77) and REN Clean Screen Mineral SPF 30 ($48) might cost a bit more, but they will make you disproportionately happy.

Serge Lutens Des Clous Pour Une Pelure #perfumeeverydamnday

A deep blue fragrance is par for Serge Lutens.

The mysterious, deep blue-green colour does not give you a clue what it smells like. Des Clous Pour Une Pelure (loosely) translates to ‘cloves for an (orange) rind’ and while it initially smells like a clove-studded orange Christmas pomander or a potion from the apothecary, it comes to life on your skin (men’s skin, women’s skin, it truly is genderless).

if you are spending this month hiding indoors or in the shade, Des Clou Pour Une Pelure proffers just enough bright orange to feel summery, but without going full-on eau de cologne.

It opens up brazenly, all energizing and grapefruity with a hint of sweetness. But soon the clove retires into the background and what remains is a citrus scent with enough spicy depth to convert anyone who thinks that citrus scents can be rather ho-hum. It’s refreshing and richly layered at the same time.

And while it will not turn your skin blue, I wouldn’t spray it anywhere near that white cotton dress you have on repeat this summer.

Caudalie Beauty Elixir: Why Live Without It?

Just because something is frivolous doesn’t mean it’s not essential

Sure you can live without Caudalie Beauty Elixir, but why would you want to? Are the pleasures in your life so thick on the ground that you can afford to reject one?

You skin certainly doesn’t need Caudalie Beauty Elixir. For cooling you could just splash on cold water from the tap, but then you’d miss out on that famous scent: a garden’s worth of rose, orange blossom, rosemary, along with benzoin and myrrh and Caudalie’s signature grape water loaded with polysaccharides for moisture and mineral salts to calm redness.

Without it, your days, which can seem endless at the 4:00 p.m. mark, whether you are working from home or not, would be a lot greyer. “It’s the Starbucks coffee of the skin,” says Caudalie founder Mathilde Thomas, selling it rather short, frankly. It is, in fact, the “stroll-through-Paris-with-your-lover-on-a-sunny-day-and-then-have-a-tête-à-tête-in-a-sidewalk-cafe” of the skin.

This year’s limited edition bottle, with its pink ombré glass and line drawings of herbs and flowers, will easily be the nicest-looking thing in your fridge. Keep it stowed there (a work from home benefit) for regular, chilly blasts during these endlessly hot days. Or spray the air around you in a witchy ritual to banish dull air and dull thoughts and make your workspace just that much nicer. And Frencher.

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Orange Soleia #perfumeeverydamnday

Like walking through an orange grove that is also an herb garden.

Spraying Guerlain’s new Aqua Allegoria Orange Soleia is like splitting apart an orange and breathing in that exploding arc of juice. The blood orange, bergamot and petitgrain (oil from leaves of the bitter orange tree) are an almost fizzy fortification against that wall of humidity you’ll encounter when you step outside this time of year.

Citrus fragrances have a notoriously brief life on your skin, but the addition of mint, floral-yet-biting pink peppercorn and a gently warm, woody note extend Orange Soleia’s presence well after that initial mood-altering orange burst has fled.

The scent is meant to evoke a Calabrian citrus grove in the hot sun, but imagine it’s your citrus grove with a pool at its edge. This is a fantasy after all. You walk through your citrus grove, eat an orange, jump in the pool to cool down and then dry off on your sun-warmed, wooden deck chair. There are worse ways to spend the summer.